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Re: Lock and Load (fwd)




Forwarded message:

> From: "Michael H. Warfield" <[email protected]>
> Subject: Re: Lock and Load
> Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 18:27:47 -0500 (EST)

> Mix enscribed thusly:
> > Jim Choate wrote:
> > > Forwarded message:
> > > > Not being a native English speaker, I do not understand the
> > > > meaning and origin of the phrase "LOck and Load".
> > >
> > > It means to lock the rifles safety and load it's chamber in preperation for
> > > firing at an enemy. It is usualy used in a military context but head-bangers
> > > and such use it when talking about loading their bongs and I am shure other
> > > groups use it as well in various contexts.
> 
> 
> > Wait a second, aren't we supposed to load first and lock later? How
> > can you load a rifle if it is on safety? 
> 
> 	The reference goes back to old flint lock muzzle loaders.  You would
> "lock" the firing mechanism in a safety position (kind of a half cocked
> position), then load it through the muzzle (picture this and some old
> cartoons about raming a ball on top of gun powder down the muzzle of a
> riffle and the possiblities to picture why you would want this locked on
> "safety"), then finish cocking the rifle to prepare it to fire.  This also
> relates to the term "half cocked" since a rifle that was only half cocked
> (in its locked position) was not ready to fire.  So going off "half cocked"
> became a reference to going into something unprepared while "lock and load"
> evolved into a reference to actively or vigorously preparing to engage in
> something, be it a battle, an arguement, or what ever...

This is only partialy correct, the fact is that half-cocked simply means the
pan-head is down or covered so if the flint strikes the firing plate a spark
will not be propogated into the firing chamber (a hole in the side of the
barrel) and hence fire the weapon. Firing one of these weapons is a two step
process once loaded and aimed. Pull the hammer back and remove the pan-head.
The pan-head is *always* opened just prior to firing in order to eliminate
as many causes of a mis-fire (eg rain hitting the pan-head or wind blowing
the primer charge out of the pan-head) as possible.

Traditionaly (as I was tought anyway) 'half-cocked' meant you didn't carry
through all the way in preperations to the final goal. It is clear that it
has taken on much broader meaning relating to general incompetance and
over-zealousness.

"Lock and load" is not in any of the infantry manuals I have ever seen from
before the mid-1800's. And in every case it refered to a modern weapon not
a muzzle load weapon. If anyone can point to an exception I would
appreciate it. In all of them it refers to safety'ing the weapon and then
loading a round into the chamber. It originaly came into use because of the
operation of a bolt-action rifle. If the gun wasn't on safety when the bolt
was driven home there was a small but real chance the firing pin (in the
back of the bolt you just jammed down with some zeal) would go off and cause
the weapon to mis-fire (if you and your buddy are both lucky - you missed
both of you).

As to the loading of the ball onto the gun-powder - you won't do it the way
described above but once. The black powder will go off on about the 3rd tap
and you won't have the two hands it takes to load a muzzle-loader. If you
*ever* load a black powder be *absolutely shure* that there is a ball pad
between the gun powder and the ball. It is *not* there for barrell sealing
or some other silly explanation - it's there to inhibit compressive
explosion of the black powder. Don't believe it, go down to the hardware or
feed store and buy a small can of black powder. Then get a 3/4" pipe and
cap. Put only one or two flakes of the black powder on the threads and then
tighten with a pipe wrench (wear gloves, glasses, and apron). After about a
half turn or so you should hear a distinct snapping sound. This is the black
powder going off. This is what will happen if black powder gets between the
ball and barrel while you're tapping - and there's a *lot* more gunpowder
than a couple of flakes to take your hand (and your face if you're silly
enough to be leaning over the barrel which is where not looking down the
barrel of a gun comes from).

Also, those guns didn't have safeties to engage. There was really only two
ways to enshure a safe weapon once loaded - either have the panhead closed
or take the flint or steel blade out of the hammer. Even when un-cocked the
hammer and blade rests on the firing plate and any stiff strike will cause a
spark. Easy to demonstrate - while holding one simply strike the hammer with
the heel of your hand while in the dark - that little spark is what blew
your face off.

You can buy working 'Brown Bessie' models at most any gun or decent hobby
store. They're cheap (around $100 last time I looked), loud, smelly, and
loads of fun...


Merry Christmas!


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